Gold Ring with Enamelled Bezel and Table-Cut Paste.
England, mid-17th century.
Measurements
Bezel: 1 × 0.9 cm.
Ring size: N UK / 6.75 US / 54 EU.
Weight: 2.6 grams.
This gold ring is centred with a citrine-coloured, table-cut paste, held within an octagonal collet framed by a band of sky-blue enamel. The enamel survives prominently around the bezel, while the shoulders display losses consistent with long use. The slender shank is ornamented with diagonally chased decoration, lending a gentle textural rhythm that complements the raised enamelled setting.
Paste-set rings of this form belong to a well-documented tradition of English jewellery of the mid-17th century. The combination of a faceted glass stone, a coloured enamel surround, and a chased gold hoop is familiar from excavated assemblages such as the Cheapside Hoard, where similarly constructed rings confirm the widespread use of brightly coloured pastes as fashionable surrogates for precious stones. This example reflects the stylistic preference for vivid chromatic contrasts and finely worked gold typical of the period, offering a representative glimpse into the material language of personal adornment in Stuart England.
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