Rose-Cut Diamond and Blue Enamel Ring.
England, circa 1680–1700.
Measurements
Ring size N UK / 6.75 US / 54 EU.
Weight: 3 grams.
Description
An English late 17th-century ring in high-carat gold, its bezel formed of a graduated arrangement of rose-cut diamonds set in closed, silver mounts. The central stone is framed by smaller rose-cut diamonds arranged in a composite formation characteristic of English cluster settings in the later Stuart period. The use of silver over gold follows established practice intended to heighten the reflective quality of the diamonds while maintaining the intrinsic richness of the underlying gold.
The reverse of the bezel is decorated with pale blue enamel applied within a series of recessed cells, a refinement frequently associated with high-quality English work of the late 17th century. This hidden polychromy, combined with the lightly modelled foliate motifs on the gold shank, reflects the ornamental vocabulary of the Baroque period and the meticulous finishing expected of fine jewellery of this date.
Comparisons
Examples with similar shanks and blue enamel can be found in The Power of Love: Six centuries of diamond betrothal rings, page 16, figs. A & B.
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